How to Guide – Luxury Mechanical Watch Service, Maintenance and Care
It’s a terrific feeling to buy something that’s brand new.
Whether you’ve made a major purchase like an automobile or a smaller one like a food processor, nothing’s better than using it for the first time. The car’s smooth pickup as you pull out of the dealership is exhilarating; the first pesto you make in the Cuisinart may not be as exhilarating, but it’s certainly rewarding and delicious.
But after a while, the new car smell goes away and the food processor may start making strange noises.
That’s when the joy of buying turns into the hassle of maintenance and repairs, and you may even start questioning the wisdom of your purchase. At the very least, you may regret having ignored the simple but necessary task of routine maintenance.
Mechanical watches have many moving parts, and high-end models are precision instruments. Even a low-end quartz watch has as many as 100 different small parts inside, while a luxury timepiece has at least twice that many.
There is an average of 220 moving parts in a Rolex, for example, and watches with extremely intricate complications may have many more.
That’s a prescription for eventual disaster – if the luxury mechanical watch hasn’t been serviced and maintained properly.
You’re probably well aware that these timepieces can easily cost between $5,000 and $50,000.
Whether you’ve purchased a designer watch for its appearance, its ability to make an immediate personal or fashion statement, or as a treasured keepsake to keep in the family, a luxury timepiece is a major investment. Proper maintenance doesn’t simply avoid annoying and expensive repairs down the road. It ensures the integrity of your valuable property for decades to come.
The good news is that servicing and maintaining a luxury timepiece isn’t difficult. It just requires some common sense on your part, and a professional “tune-up” every so often.
Groom+Style will deal with the issue of servicing first.
Does My Mechanical Watch Really Need to Be Serviced?
All luxury watch manufacturers recommend a regular interval for professional servicing.
You can ignore their recommendation, naturally, but that will void any warranty that may still be in effect.
Generally speaking, high-end timepieces should be serviced every three to five years.
A few examples: Raymond Weil recommends a three-year interval, Breitling suggests a tune-up every four to six years, and Rolex recently changed their position drastically, increasing their recommended time frame from three years all the way up to ten. You should check the owner’s manual for your watch to determine how often the manufacturer thinks you should have your watch looked at by a professional.
Investing in a watch winder (a box with a motor that moves your watch when you are not wearing it to ensure the mechanical interior does not get stuck) can delay the need for a service slightly, but will not remove it completely.
There are two approaches you can take when it’s time to service your luxury timepiece; you can send it back to the factory or you can take it to a third-party. There are even services where you can send your watch by post such as this bespoke Rolex watch service. Each has its pros and cons.
Sending your watch back to the brand for service guarantees that the work will be done by professional horologists, who have the knowledge and experience to properly handle your specific watch model. It also ensures that any replacement parts will be branded and original, and that guarantees will be extended.
However, there is almost always a long wait for factory service, so your watch could be out of your hands (and off your wrist) for as long as several months (you could always invest in another watch for your collection to get around this issue).
It can also be much more expensive to send your timepiece for service at the brand, because standard operating procedures of some high-end brands call for the automatic replacement of a number of parts which may still be in good repair.
Many local watchmakers will be happy to service your timepiece.
Unfortunately, a good number of them have little-to-no experience with high-end watches; many more will have no acquaintance with your particular make or model. That makes it imperative to find a qualified watch repair professional familiar with and certified by the brand of watch that you own.
It’s not a well-known fact, but many brands won’t allow local watchmakers access to their proprietary repair manuals and parts unless they’ve first passed difficult certification exams.
For some brands of watch, very specialized equipment is also necessary to do anything other than general cleanings. Even in that case, though, many branded parts are difficult for local shops to find and many third-party services substitute generic replacements.
Those parts can work fine, but they may void your warranty or lower the value of your timepiece.
An experienced local watchmaker certified by your brand – if you can find one – will likely be able to do the work more quickly and for a lower price. Do your research and find a service that specializes in, and is certified, for your brand of watch.
What’s Involved in a Watch Servicing?
The horologist or technician servicing your watch will always inspect, lubricate, clean, polish and test the timepiece.
That’s more difficult than it sounds, since at least some of the movement will have to be dismantled in order to lubricate the parts.
It’s easy to understand why you should only trust someone experienced with your brand to take your timepiece apart – and more importantly, put it back together properly.
Dismantling the works is important for another reason. Any watch that’s been in use for years will have at least some metal-on-metal wear, so it’s pretty much a given that there will be at least some parts which need to be replaced during a scheduled servicing.
You might wonder “I’ve maintained it properly, so why are the parts wearing down?” but consider your car’s brakes.
After a certain amount of driving, the brake pads or linings will need replacement; that’s not because you’ve done anything wrong, but simply due to normal use and wear.
The story is similar with your watch. Some parts will become worn and need replacement over the years – and if they’re not replaced, internal damage can get much worse. If your watch has suffered damage to its case, strap or crown those will also be repaired or replaced during a servicing (at an additional cost, of course).
Bear in mind that we’re discussing routine, scheduled service for your luxury timepiece. Should your watch suffer damage or begin acting erratically, you should bring or send it for service as soon as possible, just as you would do with your car if it starts acting up. The longer you wait, the higher the repair bill will be.
Maintaining Your Luxury Timepiece
High-end watches are designed to last a lifetime, but only if you care for them properly.
That’s not hard to do, but it’s easy to become forgetful or neglectful. Here are a few tips to help you keep your valuable watch in the best-possible condition.
– Keep Your Watch Clean: Dirt and grime has a way of infiltrating even the finest mechanical timepieces. Cleaning and polishing yours regularly with a jewelry microfiber cloth will not only help it look its best, but will ensure that it won’t tarnish or build up problematic layers of dirt. Avoid chemicals and don’t use just any jewelry polish on your watch; check your owner’s manual for specific recommendations.
– Don’t Leave the Crown Open: Many people understandably forget to close the crown after setting the date or time, but that’s an opening where dust, dirt or water can get in. Always take a moment to be certain the crown is closed.
– Store Your Watch Properly: After a day of avoiding contact between their watch and furniture or sharp objects, many people then drop it into their jewelry case or a nightstand where it can easily be scratched by other accessories. Use a jewelry cloth or organizer to cushion or wrap your watch when you put it away for the night. Don’t store the watch in direct sunlight or hot temperatures; find a cool, dry spot for it.
– Pay Attention to the Band: Leather straps are particularly susceptible to damage. Keep them dry (if you have a waterproof timepiece, dry out the band after it’s immersed), away from excess sun and humidity if possible, and don’t over-tighten the strap on your wrist (which can lead to cracking). Whether the band is leather or metal, always apply any cologne or perfume before putting the band on your wrist to avoid unnecessary exposure which can cause damage or corrosion.
– Avoid Water Exposure: Non-waterproof luxury timepieces should be kept far away from water and even waterproof models should only be submerged when necessary (and wearing the watch in the shower, of course, isn’t necessary). Don’t wear waterproof watches in salt water or in the spa, since salt is a major cause of corrosion and the heat of a spa can do additional damage above and beyond anything water could cause. Dry waterproof watches as soon as possible after they’re immersed, and bring your watch in for a check if you notice any condensation under the crystal.
– Avoid Magnetic Fields: Magnetism can do serious damage to the works inside a mechanical timepiece. Appliances and electronics like refrigerators, speakers, hand-held devices and security scanners can magnetize a watch (you can check for this by holding the timepiece next to a compass). This issue calls for an immediate visit to a qualified technician.
The proper servicing and maintenance of a luxury timepiece will protect your major investment in a high-end watch.
It should even allow the timepiece to function long after you’re gone, and your children or grandchildren are impressing their acquaintances with the keepsake vintage luxury watch they’ve inherited.
Now that you have all the information you need to service and maintain your mechanical watch you can proceed with confidence to add to your luxury watch collection:
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Few people need a watch to tell the time anymore. At home, at work there are digital watches on appliances, on electronic equipment and in the corners of our computer screens.
When we’re out in the “real world,” a quick glance at our smartphones tells us not only the time, but also the temperature, what’s happening in the ballgame and whether one of the Kardashians has done something we don’t really need to know about.
That means the primary purpose of a watch in the 21st century is as an accessory, and luxury watches are the ultimate accessories. The proper high-end watch completes an outfit; more importantly it conveys elegance and style, and makes a distinct personal statement.
Vintage and antique timepieces, passed down through generations of families, may have special meaning to the owner and become a conversation piece when worn in public, even if they weren’t manufactured by a well-known watchmaker.
“Necessity watches” that some people wear because they’re not regularly near clocks – or simply out of habit – are virtually invisible.
Wearing a luxury watch sends a powerful message to colleagues, employees, clients, social acquaintances and even potential employers. It is a sign that you are living a good life and that you care about making a good impression.
It can be as confusing and difficult to choose the right watch as it is to buy a new car. Their specifications, functions and features are important, but the most crucial factor is whether the timepiece just seems right for you.
The car-buying process is often tricky and fraught with peril. Unfortunately, the luxury watch buying process can be as frustrating and treacherous as a trip to the auto dealership if you don’t know what to expect, what to look for or who to trust.
Groom+Style don’t want you to go into the trenches unarmed; here’s a look at the good, the bad and the ugly of buying luxury watches.
What Is A Luxury Watch, Anyway?
It’s probably a good idea to start with a quick definition. A luxury watch is usually defined by three factors: its designer or manufacturer, its internal workings, and its price.
The brand name attached to a timepiece often immediately qualifies it as a luxury watch.
Venerable watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe are revered for their complicated movements, outstanding craftsmanship and impeccable design, and any watch produced by one of those companies is automatically assumed to be a luxury watch.
High-end manufacturers such as Rolex and Cartier sit on a slightly lower tier but are immediately identified with “luxury” because of their iconic brand names.
To understand the inner workings of a luxury timepiece, you have to know a little about how they’re built. Watches can have two types of operating systems, known as movements.
Lower-end quartz timepieces use an internal oscillator and are powered by batteries. If manufactured well, they are extremely accurate and relatively inexpensive to produce – but not considered luxury watches.
You can normally tell a quartz watch by the “tick-tick-tick” of the second hand.
Mechanical movements are quite different.
They utilize energy that’s stored in a spring to power the gears inside the watch and must be painstakingly created by hand, with the highest-quality “complications” requiring an inordinate amount of work to perfect.
This method of operation can make a watch slightly less accurate, which is why the best Swiss mechanical movements are certified for accuracy by independent authorities. The “telltale sign” of a mechanical watch is a second hand that sweeps instead of ticks.
Luxury watches for women will feature mechanical movements, with the best timepieces boasting prestigious certifications for accuracy.
You may be asking why a watch subject to accuracy questions would be more valuable and desirable than a quartz watch; it’s for the same reason that a Porsche 911 is a luxury automobile while a Ford Focus isn’t.
The Focus may reliably get you where you want to go, but a Porsche – well, you don’t have to be told the difference.
Finally, price plays a major role in defining a luxury watch.
The finest brand-name luxury timepieces available to the public (that is, not limited-edition or special order watches) often cost well above the $10,000 price level, sometimes approaching or even exceeding the $100,000 mark. What could say “luxury” more than that?
Buying Luxury Watches: The Good
Quite simply, a luxury watch makes a first impression that might otherwise take you minutes, days or months to convey. The right timepiece can send messages like “success,” “style” or “judgment” with just one flash of the wrist.
Wearing a luxury watch that isn’t as commonly-seen as a Rolex or Patek can send additional messages like “exclusive,” “discriminating” or simply “very wealthy.”
The finest luxury timepieces will have the ability to keep near-perfect time as well, thanks to their finely-crafted mechanical complications lovingly created by skilled artisans.
They may also have features impossible to find on more mundane watches, such as aeronautical gauges or staying waterproof up to 100 meters.
The high quality of a luxury watch can also ensure that you’ll own your timepiece for many trouble-free years. Romain Jerome even have a collection of watches made with parts from the titanic.
Purchasing a high-end designer watch can be a pleasure instead a nightmare, if you deal with a reputable boutique or dealer specializing in luxury timepieces.
When you choose the proper vendor you’ll receive the perks of being a valued buyer, from solicitous advice and white-glove treatment to outstanding customer service; these dealers consider you a client, not just a customer.
There are some sellers who are less trustworthy, however, and we’ll deal with them when we discuss the “ugly” of buying luxury watches.
There’s certainly no guarantee that a luxury watch will hold its value forever, let alone appreciate.
Yet many top brand-name timepieces do indeed retain much of their worth over time, and some do appreciate in value as they age; for that reason, some purchasers see their purchase of a luxury watch as an investment.
On the other hand, previously-owned designer watches are easy to find on secondary markets.
Many which have not grown in value can be acquired at prices substantially below the cost of a brand-new luxury watch – allowing buyers to own and wear a statement watch they wouldn’t otherwise be able to afford. You also might want to keep current trends and new designs in mind.
Then, of course, there’s the obvious. A luxury watch adds a look of sophistication and style to a man’s appearance, and can give a woman’s outfit the appropriate finishing touch of elegance, flash or glamour.
Dazzling necklaces, rings, pendants and other accessories are obvious and sometimes gaudy symbols of wealth, but high-end timepieces are subtle and often more effective in making an impressive personal statement.
Buying Luxury Watches: The Bad
Groom+Style have one word for you: price. You would naturally expect to pay quite a bit more for any luxury goods, but designer watches carry high price tags that might surprise first-time buyers.
After all, it just goes on your wrist and tells time; how much can any watch cost?
A lot.
The world’s most expensive luxury timepieces sell for more than a million dollars, and you’d be hard pressed to find “ordinary” high-end watches for less than four figures.
The designer watches that are often used as examples of luxury pieces regularly sell for anywhere between $10,000 and $50,000. That’s not necessarily “bad” if you can afford to spend that much on a fine watch, but price is the number-one drawback for most would-be buyers.
If you’re looking for more affordable options, this list of watches under 200 might be the better choice for you.
The other drawback is the potential for depreciation.
Most watches do lose at least some of their value over their lifetime, so buying luxury timepieces as investment vehicles is not a game for the novice. If you’re purchasing a high-end watch for its many attributes or to pass down through your family over time – rather than as an attractive lottery ticket – its expected depreciation isn’t really “bad” at all.
It’s simply what you should expect when making any purchase.
You also have to plan for the “unexpected” accessories that you will need to invest in, that no one really talks about, to care and maintain your watch at home – such as mechanical watch winders.
As the name suggestions, these are boxes with motors that keep your watch moving to stop the oil within them drying up.
Buying Luxury Watches: The Ugly
There are bad people in the world. Some have found that there’s big money to be made by producing counterfeit luxury watches and selling them to unsuspecting customers.
It’s illegal for any number of reasons including trademark and copyright infringement, and fraud. It costs legitimate manufacturers billions of dollars per year.
The market for fake high-end watches has given rise to many snake-oil salesmen, both in stores and online, who try to pawn off counterfeit watches as the real thing.
The scammers have gotten so good at reproducing luxury timepieces that even many jewelers and dealers can’t tell the difference. If you’re not patronizing a reputable dealer or online vendor, you could be among those paying big money for fake goods.
Not every seller is trying to scam thousands of dollars on each watch.
Many of these counterfeits are sold for prices far below the market price of the genuine article so it’s easy to tell that you’re purchasing a fake; you’re not going to be able to buy a legitimate Jaeger-LeCoultre for $400. Some websites even tell you up front that the merchandise is a “replica.”
It’s very tempting to grab a timepiece which appears at first glance to be a Rolex, in order to impress those you meet casually or in business or social settings.
But that harms the industry, and if it’s not immediately obvious to others that you’re wearing a counterfeit watch, they’re likely to discover it sooner or later and think less of you for it.
There is also a so-called “grey market” for luxury watches, where you can purchase a legitimate piece at a lower price.
Whether or not these timepieces have been acquired through honest means, they won’t have a factory warranty or be eligible for any sort of luxury mechanical watch servicing. Be aware before you buy.
Should You Buy A Luxury Watch?
If you can’t afford it, of course not.
If you can, and you’re searching for an accessory which will make the ultimate statement about your fashion sense, your sophistication and your style, a luxury watch will provide greater personal satisfaction and rewards than almost anything else you can purchase – except, perhaps, that Jaguar 911. Follow the links below to find Groom+Style’s pick of the top 10 best luxury watches for men and women.
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